Monday, December 26, 2011

GI Custom E-Glide Powerboard

Official E-Glide GI video 2011. Filmed & edited by: Carlos Kessell. Rider:Dan Claybourne. Filmed in the neighborhoods of Santa Monica, Ca.

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Saturday, December 3, 2011

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Saturday, November 26, 2011

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Monday, November 21, 2011

Corvette Legend - Larry Shinoda

!±8± Corvette Legend - Larry Shinoda

Larry Shinoda was a big part of the first Corvette Sting Ray and helped to shape Corvette into the car it has become today. Even before the first Sting Ray was developed he helped Bill Mitchell design and create the Stingray Racer which went on to a brief but successful racing career.

Shinoda was born in Los Angeles to parents of Japanese decent and began his love affair with cars at an early age when he would use broken pencils to create different shades and colors while drawing his designs. He continued drawing and designing cars while he was still a child and into his adolescence and his passion would prove its worth when he would later find his way to GM.

Shinoda was a big part of the original Q-Corvette that was a major player in the Sting Ray design. He also had a hand in the decision to add the split window to the first year of the C2 Corvette. The Sting Ray that he helped develop represented the first time that the Corvette would stand on its own as an icon and stop looking towards the European sports cars for influences. Shinoda took his job at GM seriously and even in 1963 when he was told to create a four seater corvette, he did so without a complaint (luckily the design was not popular and was later scrapped).

Shinoda worked for many years with GM until he followed then Chevy general manager Bunkie Knudsen to Ford in 1968. While it was a shame to see him go he continued to enjoy much creative success there as well. While at Ford he was directly responsible for designing the Boss 302 Mustang which many consider to be the most graceful Mustang ever made.

After his time at Ford he started his own design company and then went to work designing anything and everything. Among his more notable designs were Roger Penske's race trailers, Monaco Motor Homes, and even the Goodyear Blimp.

When the C4 Corvette came out Shinoda once again became involved with Chevy in an indirect way. He developed and designed a slick body treatment that was available as an aftermarket product and he dubbed it the Rick Mears Special Edition. Though he was not directly working for Chevy, he was none the less involved with the Corvette once again.

In 1996 the innovative designer fell ill with a kidney condition and the doctors informed him that his days were numbered if he didn't get a kidney transplant. A major fund raising effort was put into place and although there was a good amount of money collected for the effort, Shinoda sadly succumbed to the condition in late 1997 at the age of 67.

His creativity and design grace will always be remembered by all those who have come to love the Corvette and what it stands for. In 1998 Larry Shinoda was honored by being inducted to the Corvette Hall of Fame. There he will forever be remembered for all that he did for the American icon that is the Chevrolet Corvette.


Corvette Legend - Larry Shinoda

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Friday, November 18, 2011

Perfecting the 5.0 Mustang Launch - Part 1 - The Tires

!±8± Perfecting the 5.0 Mustang Launch - Part 1 - The Tires

The 5.0 Mustang is one of the most popular cars found today at the drag strip. Not without good reason either. The Mustangs good power to weight ratio from the factory. Along with the extremely large availability of both factory and aftermarket parts. Make her a great platform from which to build a fine racing machine. However the Fox-body Mustang is not without its shortcomings (nobody's perfect). The non parallel four link rear suspension, nose heavy weight bias, and several other factors. Leave a lot of room for improvement, thankfully most of them are easily remedied.

Lets begin with the tires, the tires are the main link between the car and the road. Making them the single most important part of getting your Mustang to launch correctly. The factory supplied rubber, Goodyear Eagles on most models. Are a fine tire, but not exactly optimized for drag racing. The short sidewall height, combined with the relatively hard rubber compound. Mean lots of wheelspin and black marks on the ground. So a change to a dedicated drag racing type tire is in order. For street driven cars drag radials are hard to beat, on a strictly track only ride racing slicks are what you want. Mustangs can use either a 26" or 28" tall tire with only slight massaging of the inner fenderwells. Use a 15x8" wheel with a 5.5" backspacing and you should be able to fit a 275/60x15 radial or a 28x12.5-15LT ET Street or a 28x10.5-15 slick. The difference is in the way the tires are measured, slicks are listed by tread width, the rest are given by section width(overall width).

While a 28" tall tire, like the above sizes is best for a high horsepower, supercharged, turbocharged or nitrous car. If your ride is mostly stock in the horsepower department, a 28" tire would definitely be overkill. One thing to consider is the weight of your tire, taller = heavier. Once your car launches that same tire now becomes a liability, because of rotational inertia. In other words if your car hooks fine with a 26" tire and does'nt spin excessively. It will actually be quicker with the smaller and lighter tire. If your budget constraints limit you to one set of tires the shorter tires are probably the way you want to go. A 28" tire will require a rearend gear change as well. Which is an extra expense that I'll discuss in a later chapter.

On the lighter is better topic, most factory wheels are ungodly heavy. Changing to a lightweight aluminum wheel like a Centerline or Weld Draglights, or if you're in the money a set of Bogarts. Will definitely shave some time off your 60' ET, as much as 1/10 second or more on some cars. Most wheels will require longer wheel studs to properly secure them to your ride. Safety rules say the stud must extend at least the diameter of the stud (1/2") into the hex portion of the lugnut. Radials are usually run tubeless, slicks and ET street type tires are generally run with tubes inside. Running tubes requires you to run screws through the bead. To prevent tire creep from ripping out your valvestems. 10-12 self tapping S.S. screws equally spaced around the bead on BOTH sides of the wheel should do the trick. Make sure the screws you use are long enough to go through the rim but not so long as to puncture the tire. Something around a #12 hex head x 1/2"-3/4" length should be good, (make sure you check though). Be sure to have your new wheels and tires professionally balanced before hitting the race track. Self sticking wheel weights work better than the hammer on kind most tire stores use. You might want to pick some up and bring them with you when you go to have them mounted.

Now that your Mustang has new shoes, its time to air them up. Buy a high quality tire pressure gauge made specifically for drag racing. The old pencil/stick type gauge is just not going to cut it anymore! My recommendation is to start on the high side of the pressure range (Do not exceed maximum pressure) and gradually lower the pressure 1-2 psi at a time. Keep checking your 60' times, look for the pressure that gives you the quickest time. After that you can vary pressures by 1/2 pound at a time to perfect your ride. Be wary of the fact that a drag slick with low air pressure is a hairy ride that takes a little getting used to, be careful! By now you should have lowered your ET by several tenth's of a second at least. Keep reading along with me and I'll bring you my best racing tips and techniques to make you the king of the strip!

Copyright 2010 by Tommy Gambon


Perfecting the 5.0 Mustang Launch - Part 1 - The Tires

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Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Motorcycle Boots

!±8± Motorcycle Boots

We do not know much, but we know that, at least, is not it. And 'evident from the pictures soon, the pilots were wearing, what he felt to be practical at that time. It was defined as no driving "uniform" in those early days (and there is no authority to make such recommendations), it was a case of anything goes, where the rackets involved.

It was not long, however, has brought common sense to recognize the motorcyclist's happened a lot of foot injuries due to a potentially preventableLack of adequate shielding and protection of these endangered feet.

Of course, the first stimulus was not re-invent the wheel, but already existing forms of protection of the foot, as worn by cowboys and jockeys, and how to serve them with a reliable reputation of explorers, outdoorsmen and adventurers seeking engineers. Engineer boots twentieth century, as a matter of fact, had evolved from shoes, which had been for centuries, the defense of digitsFeet, calves and thighs of surveyors, soldiers, and, yes, the engineers and the elements of injury from a brutal attack on objects or living things.

This shoe-box solutions for a time served good drivers, but there is always the restless desire for something better, something suitable to improve the performance of his duty to life. Something "just for bikers."

So, over the years has developed the equation:
Engineer boots + Various minor tweaks traditional = 'Motorcycleboot "

After onlyriders.com 's boots were standard in 1930 and '40' stovepipe legs on bikers "There were so popular and convenient that military personnel around the world have adopted this type of" boots "for the soldiers motorcycle . buckles at the instep and the top was used to keep them firmly attached boots, motorcycle boots, but also gave a unique character that appealed to the general population. "

This character, in fact, the boat more frequently associatedwith Marlon Brando and the Bad Boy Bikers of the '50's-and probably the one the Cheers sang about in their unforgettable 1955 hit:
"He wore black denim trousers and motorcycle boots

And a black leather jacket with an eagle on the back.

He had a hopped-up 'cycle that took off like a gun;

That fool was the terror of Highway 101."

Still later, in the '60s, sources agree, the round-toed engineer boots gave way to harness boots, which typically have square toes and cosmetic accoutrements like leather straps and rings. Some riders in search of really serious protection (and a seriously rugged look, to boot) even began opting for logger boots with steel toes and their "heavy, robust design."

Jeremy Granger, Marketing Director for Ridge Footwear, defines the traditional biker boot as a heavy, all-leather black boot, eight inches tall or more-a slip-on design with a big sole that can be resoled.

"Traditional motorcycle boot-makers used a heavy leather because they wanted the protection it offered; and they used a taller shank to prevent the wearer's pants from riding up above the boot top when they were riding."

Granger points to currently available traditional biker styles that are still big and heavy, with buckles, but explains the change in biker demographics that makes these styles less practical and popular today.

"In the early '90's, Harley-Davidson's image went from the Bad Boy Biker bike to, suddenly, the bike that everybody wanted to have. Superstars, attorneys, doctors, and average working people wanted to ride Harleys, and got rid of their Hondas and Yamahas in order to do so.

"From our standpoint in the footwear business, and as avid bikers, we started noticing that the biker profile was changing. Bike events at places like Sturgis, Daytona, and Myrtle Beach became more prevalent. People were riding or driving to these events, then walking a lot of territory as they visited a lot of different vendors and activities."

More and more riders were taking day trips to social get-together motorcycle events and walking all the festivities, Granger noted, and thus their footwear needs were changing.
"The days of the traditional biker boot are becoming extinct," said Granger. "You see very few hard core bikers any more. Most of the guys that ride bikes as recreation are wearing coats and ties during the week-or they're out working on a construction site or something, and on the weekend they turn into a biker. My Dad is one of those, he's had multiple Boss Hosses, and he comes to work in an office all week long and he doesn't look like a biker, but he's been riding a bike his whole life."

To effectively monitor these demographic changes, Ridge execs did some research at the rallies and festivals they attended, paying special attention to what riders were wearing on their feet.
"We saw people riding in tennis shoes; we saw people in the coastal regions riding in flipflops. I don't recommend that," commented Granger.

The priority of all these riders, however, was clearly comfort. So, responsively, three years ago Ridge Footwear began developing motorcycle boots "that carried the characteristics necessary in a riding boot, but are comfortable enough to allow people to walk an event all day and not wear them out lugging around a big, heavy, bulky boot that probably doesn't fit that well, anyway."

Ridge's solution was a line of boots that "feel like tennis shoes, but deliver needed protection and support. They're lightweight, comfortable, and more."
They added inside zippers and waterproof riding boots-creating what Granger called "a lazy man's boot." Now, he reflects, nearly all their top-sellers are zipper designs.
Overall, today's motorcycle boots boast superior materials that provide better insulation, moisture wicking and waterproof membranes to keep feet dry, and synthetic rubber soles that are exceptionally oil-resistant.

What Qualities Should a Motorcycle Boot Have?

When you're shopping for a riding boot, what should you look for? The Internet is brimming with expert advice on the subject; here's the Cliff's Notes version:
*Soles should be durable and slip-resistant, especially on oil-slick pavement. You want something that won't slide out from under you when you put your feet down at a stop.
Resoleable boots, says Granger, come with an extremely bulky durable welted Goodyear outsole that makes the boot heavy and somewhat stiff, although admittedly this is the most serviceable outsole available. "There's a fine line between the comfort you want and durability that you need. At Ridge, we are using more of the lighter weight one-piece soles, which consist of a comfortable EVA or polyurethane midsole, permanently bonded to a sturdy carbon rubber outsole. These are not resoleable; when they're worn out, you throw the boot away."
He points out that from a practical standpoint, it's hard to find cobblers nowadays, even if you prefer to have boots or shoes resoled.
*Ankle support is essential. In the early days of motorcycle boots, they were straight-up leather slip-on boots, like cowboy boots you slide on and off. "The problem was," says Granger, "There was no support there. That's why lace-ups are important; they give you a nice tight fit. With the zipper boots, you can enjoy both-the great fit and custom support of the lace-up style, with the ease of zipping in and out of it without re-lacing it each time."
*Protection for toes and ankles. Although steel toed boots immediately leap to mind, many of today's hard leather toe caps can protect without the weight and bulk of steel toes. Even the most skilled and careful rider can wind up laying a bike down. A good boot can spare clothing, skin, and flesh from the worst of flying debris, burns, and rough impacts.
*Adhesion: Boots need to stay on your feet to do their job. The advent of the side-zipper boot has virtually ended the long argument between lace-up and slip-on advocates. Slip-ons can just as easily slip off under stress-when you'd rather they didn't. On the other hand, laces can come untied and get hung up in moving parts, creating a serious hazard. Today, most lace-ups are designed to be easily tucked safely inside once they're tied-and the tight custom fit and support lacing provides can be maintained easily without relacing if the boot also comes with an inside zipper for quick and easy off and on.
*Weather resistance: Is waterproof necessary? Some people need waterproof leather boots; others who don't plan to ride in the rain don't need or want that protection-or the extra weight that comes with it. These folks are usually happier with a boot with breathable nylon, for instance, notes Granger, so that it's more comfortable for walking around.

Of Special Interest to Women

The women's motorcycle industry is booming-many more women are taking up riding than ever before, and the Internet features an abundance of web sites that focus on the special needs of female bikers.

The boom is fueled in part by the ease of customizations that make motorcycles easier to manage for women with slighter, smaller frames. Bikes can be lowered closer to the ground, handlebars can be extended further, etc.

Granger reports that within the last seven or eight years, many women's biker boot styles have begun to appear, too. "Many of them have a traditional look, but they're modified with bigger heels and attractive cosmetic features like chrome buckles. The designs focus on style rather than function, however," he observes. "My mother, for instance, rides as a passenger with my dad, and she sometimes wears a slip-on style that doesn't even have a backstrap behind her heel.

"I would imagine that as more women start riding on their own, they will start wearing more functional boots rather than thin, stylish boots, because now they're in a position where they have to put their feet down at every stop, and they have to know that their feet are nice and steady on the pegs and on the floorboards. They'll also want to be confident that they're wearing something they can shift with."

The fashion-focused boots currently available to women aren't always slip-proof on oily surfaces, and the popular boxy toe styles may not even fit under a shifter, he points out, predicting a move toward functionality and away from fashion for serious women riders.

The bottom line is-wear what works best for you and your riding style; but be careful when weighing those options. As all good Boss Hoss riders do, be sure to put safety first!


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Sunday, October 23, 2011

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Thursday, October 20, 2011

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Wednesday, October 19, 2011

NASCAR Tires

!±8± NASCAR Tires

Let's start off with the basics; do you know what NASCAR stands for? It is an acronym for The National Association for Stock Car Auto Racing. Since the year 1997, The Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company for New & Used Tires has pretty much been the main tire provider for all of three NASCAR's top branches; which are the Craftsman Truck Series, the Nationwide Series, & the Sprint Cup Series.

One of the main racing tires is called the Goodyear Racing Eagles. The reason why they are so popular in the racing industry is because they include a bunch of different elements. Let's take the time to study each one; do you have a pen & paper ready?

Apex: dominates the stiffness of the sidewall.

Bead: the Racing Eagles have two beads; which means that there is good contact between the tire & the actual OEM Wheel.

Carcass Piles: these piles serve as the backbone of the racing tire. It provides the support & strength the tire needs.

Belt Package: there's something called steel braided belts that are actually placed between the tread & piles to give the Goodyear tire the flat footprint.

Inner Liner: this is a separate tire that gives the support a tire needs just in case there is a puncture or just a random failure in the main tire.

Tread Compound: the contact patch.. or the part of the tire that gives it its grip.

Since the racing tires have no true tread, they are considered to be slick tires. "Slicks" are known as tires that have smooth surfaces (go figure, right?). Since they have no grooves or anything of that sort, they tend to have a wider & larger contact patch; this leaves a bigger footprint & gives the tire optical traction.

There are special processes to manufacture a Racing Tire; one of them involves a method called curing. This technique gives the tires their proper & required compound; but even though this my seem simple, the tires are always under an extreme amount of pressure & heat most of the time. This can eventually alter the way that they grip to the road during a race.

It's not like Goodyear makes the tires & NASCAR automatically puts them on their cars; they need to test them out first. When these tests take place, NASCAR & Goodyear Tires work together to pick specific drivers from each of the individual four producers that are involved with NASCAR & then they pick tracks that they would like to use to record the data of the tires. Does that make sense? I sure hope so. The drivers that are chosen decide to bring their own cars & teams & then just run lap after lap after lap to test out the tires. At the same time, the tire engineers take note of the tire temperature, the psi, the wear of the tire, & other factors to take back to the "lab" to determine what compound to use when they manufacture the new tires. The compound usually refers to a combination of rubber & polymer chemicals that give the racing tires the strength & longevity they need.

In years before, testing tires was looked upon as an inconvenience by most teams; but I mean, it saves you from future accidents.. you know? That's just me though.

So if you love watching the NASCAR races 36 times a year with that big family of yours, this article should serve as some sort of interest.. or at least I really hope it does.


NASCAR Tires

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